Although remarkably durable, pianos are subject to deterioration with time and use. Felt wears, strings break, wooden structures weaken and crack, and the exterior finish loses its beauty. Regular service and periodic action regulation can compensate for minor wear, but heavy or extended use — especially when combined with wide seasonal humidity swings — can eventually cause severe deterioration.

Some technicians possess the skills to restore such instruments to excellent condition. This work is variously described as rebuilding, restoration, renovation, remanufacturing, refurbishing, or reconditioning. To establish some uniformity, the Piano Technicians Guild uses the following terms:

Rebuilding restores the piano to original condition or better. Such comprehensive work is usually most practical for high-quality instruments where maximum performance and longevity are required.

In the short term, leather and felt compact, affecting the adjustment (regulation) of the parts. The action becomes uneven and less responsive, and the piano's tone loses dynamic range. Squeaks and rattles may develop. Routine maintenance such as hammer filing, regulation, voicing, and tuning will correct these problems and maintain the piano in near-new condition.

After extended or very heavy use, action parts become severely worn. Leather and felt wear thin. Keys become wobbly, hammer felt gets too thin to produce good tone, and the action becomes noisy. Regulation adjustments reach their limit. In addition, piano strings may begin breaking and the copper windings of bass strings lose resonance.

After decades of exposure to seasonal changes, the wood of the soundboard, bridges, and pinblock is weakened. This causes loose tuning pins, poor tuning stability, and further loss of tone. By this time the piano's finish will often be scratched or faded.

Most pianos can be played for many years without major repairs. However, the tone, touch, and appearance will continually decline with age. If piano received no regular maintenance and/or when regular maintenance such as cleaning, regulating, voicing, and tuning can no longer provide satisfactory performance, a piano may require reconditioning or rebuilding.

Exactly when a piano needs rebuilding or reconditioning depends on its original quality, the climate, usage, and performance requirements. One piano may need rebuilding after just twenty years, while another may need only reconditioning after fifty years. The best way to decide is to seek out a qualified piano technician with the judgment, experience, and expertise to advise you on such an important decision. Our store offers a full service of used pianos and all works are fully guaranteed. Please call 905-855-1030 for full details or to discuss your needs.

Not all pianos are worth the expense of reconditioning or rebuilding. In consultation with experienced piano technician, you should consider the following factors:

• The overall condition of the piano. Can it really be restored to original condition or is it deteriorated
  beyond repair? Pianos subjected to severe fire, flood, or moving damage may not be repairable.
• The quality, size, and type of the piano. Low priced, small pianos of poor design have limited
  potential. If the rebuilt piano would not be capable of meeting your performance needs, it would be
  better to replace it with new one of better design.
• The cost of repairs versus replacement. Major repairs may exceed the value of small low-quality
  pianos. However, most large high-quality instruments can be rebuilt for one-half to two-
  thirds the cost of a comparable new piano, making rebuilding a cost-effective option for fine
  pianos.
• Sentimental value. Personal attachment or historical value may justify investing in major
  repairs rather than replacement.

• Thorough cleaning.
• Repair or replacement of damaged parts as needed, typically including such jobs as felt
  replacement, hammer filing or replacement, and partial restringing.
• Adjustment, regulation, tuning, and voicing to return all parts to proper function, reduce
  mechanical noise, and improve tone.
• Finish touch-up or polishing.

What work is included in rebuilding?

• Complete disassembly of the instrument.
• Repair or replacement of soundboard, bridges, and pin-block, as well as repair of any structural
  damage to the case.
• Replacement of all strings and tuning pins.
• Thorough restoration of action and damper system, including replacement of hammers, many
  action parts, springs, and most felt.
• Rebuilding of the pedal and trap-work system, including replacement of all worn felt, leather, and
  metal parts.
• Refinishing of case and plate, polishing or re-plating of all hardware, and replacement of all decals, felt trims, and rubber buttons
• Complete action regulation, tuning, and voicing.
• Multiple tunings to stabilize new strings.

If you suspect that your piano needs major repairs, have a complete evaluation done by a qualified piano technician. Discuss costs versus benefits of various repair options, and whether the completed piano would meet your performance requirements. Clarkson Piano Centre offers the  "piano assessment service" - a detailed evaluation of your  piano's condition with recommended restoration options. The cost for this service is $50 (+7% tax).

We encourage you to ask for a second opinion and evaluation. Consistent recommendations by our  customers - "word-of-mouth" advertising- creates on a steady basis a waiting list of approximately 2-5 weeks for taking major new restorative piano work. We are confident, it is worth to wait and get your piano restored with us! You will get the best possible work performed at very reasonable cost! All works are supported by our written guarantee!  

Your piano's cabinet, like all woodwork, is subject to expansion and contraction with humidity changes. Excessive wood movement can eventually cause the finish to develop tiny cracks and even separate from the wood. Moderating the temperature and humidity swings around the piano will help to preserve its finish as well as its overall structure and tuning stability.

Locate the piano in a room with a fairly even temperature, away from drafts, dampness, and heat sources. Always avoid direct sunlight — it will age the finish prematurely and cause color fading.

To prevent scratches, never set objects on your piano without a soft cloth or felt pad. Never place plants or drinks on a piano, because spillage and condensation can cause major damage.

Dust is very abrasive, and can scratch the finish if wiped off with a dry cloth. To avoid scratching, dust the piano lightly with a feather duster. Alternatively, wipe lightly with a soft damp cloth to pick up the dust, followed immediately with a dry cloth. The cloths should be soft cotton such as flannel, because coarse or synthetic fabrics can scratch some finishes. Wring out the damp cloth thoroughly so it leaves no visible moisture on the surface.

To avoid creating swirl marks, always wipe with long straight strokes rather than circular motions. Wipe with the grain for natural wood finishes, or in the direction of the existing sheen pattern for solid-color satin finishes. Because some exposed parts inside your piano are fragile, it's best to let your technician clean these areas.

3. Cleaning the finish.

To remove smudges and fingerprints, first dust using the damp/dry cloths as above. If heavier cleaning is necessary, dampen your cloth with a small amount of mild soap solution. A common product is Murphy's Oil Soap, available at most grocery and hardware stores.

The two most common piano finishes are lacquer and polyester. Either material may come in clear, black, white, or other colors. Check your piano's owner information booklet to determine the type and recommended care of your piano's finish, or ask your technician or dealer for help if you're not sure.

Lacquer: Most, but not all, American-made pianos have lacquer finishes. They may be satin (dull sheen), semi-gloss, or high gloss.

Cleaning: For general dusting and cleaning of lacquer finishes, see items 2 and 3 preceding. Be especially careful to avoid scratching high gloss finishes by using only very soft, clean cloths and wiping with light pressure. For satin finishes, always rub in line with the existing sheen.

Polishing. Satin finishes are intended to be dull and will normally have a poor appearance if a gloss-producing polish is applied. If desired, a polish may be applied to gloss or semi-gloss finishes. Two common products are Guardsman Furniture Polish and OZ Cream Polish. Your technician may carry these or other products especially recommended for piano care. Note the precautions under item 4 regarding selecting and applying polishes.

When cleaning or polishing a lacquer finish, avoid hard pressure on sharp corners and edges since the finish can easily wear through to bare wood.

Polyester. Most Asian and European pianos have polyester finishes in satin or high-gloss (called high polish). Although somewhat "cold" in appearance, this material is harder and more scratch-resistant than lacquer, and best maintained by simple dusting and cleaning.

Use the same procedure as for lacquer.

Polishing. Satin polyester looks best when simply kept clean. Avoid gloss-producing polishes, which leave satin finishes looking shiny but scratched.

High-polish polyester finishes need only be kept clean to maintain their gloss. However, high-wear areas such as the music desk may eventually develop a hazy appearance caused by many fine scratches. These areas can be buffed back to a high gloss using a product designed to remove tiny scratches from fiberglass boats or plastic windows in convertible cars. Two such products are Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #17 Plastic Cleaner, and Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #9 Swirl Remover—available from marine supply, auto-parts, or automotive paint supply stores. Please contact us for periodic polyester finish refreshing  & buff-up service at reasonable costa dn have your piano became brand-new, again! 

Dents, scratches, and chips sometimes occur, spoiling the appearance of an otherwise perfect finish. Such damage can usually be corrected by our specialist in "finish touch-up", please call us at 905-855-1030 to arrange your appointment!

Piano keys eventually become soiled with accumulated oil and dirt from fingers. To clean your white keys, use a soft cloth dampened with water and a small amount of mild soap. Avoid solvents. Make sure the cloth is thoroughly wrung out, and wipe the keys back-to-front, rather than side-to-side, so excess moisture and dirt will not seep down the sides of the keys. Clean only a few keys at a time, drying immediately with a clean cloth.

Ivory keys are porous, and excessive moisture can penetrate and loosen their glue joints. Also, a dirty or brightly colored cleaning cloth can transfer stains into the ivory.

Clean sharps in the same manner, but use a separate cloth for painted wooden sharps to avoid black stains on the white keys.

Locate your piano to avoid direct sunlight as well as excessive temperature and humidity changes. To avoid scratching, always remove dust first with a damp cloth or feather duster before wiping with a dry cloth.

Never place drinks, plants, etc. on the finish. Avoid placing vinyl or rubber in contact with the piano. Make sure that piano lamps, etc. have a felt-padded base. Avoid touching piano strings with fingers or damp cloths. Delicate parts inside your piano should be cleaned only by your technician. Use polish sparingly, if at all. Avoid aerosol products. Read labels carefully, and avoid any product containing silicone. Before playing, always wash your hands to prevent staining the sides and tops of the keys.